According to the surveys conducted at last September's exhibition,66%of Texworld visitors value eco-friendly ranges at the show while 72%of exhibitors expressed their satisfaction with the organization of the Eco Itinerary which groups around one hundred weavers of eco-friendly fabrics,like organic cotton,cellulosic fabrics like Tencel or Modal,recycled fabrics(cotton,polyester,wool,linen...).
An increasing number of buyers are asking for these ranges of green products even if organic and eco-friendly products are 15-25%more expensive than conventional fabrics.The major retail chains,to mention just C&A,H&M and Inditex,are the prime customers.
Texworld has highlighted and expanded this range for a long time.At the next show,eco-friendly fabrics will once again be showcased in the visitors'guide and the Eco Itinerary.The exhibition can be proud of its offer of high-quality ranges thanks to the top specialists for:
•organic cotton:Chemitex(Belgium),Isil Tekstil and Larmatex(Turkey),Sapphire Textile Mills(Pakistan),Vardhman Fabrics(India)or else the new exhibitor ElHesn Textile(Egypt)....
•Organic linen:Northern Linen(the Netherlands),Shenzen Boyang Linen(China)...
•Recycled polyester:Sy Vina(Vietnam),Toray Sakai weaving&Dyeing(China)...
•Cellulosic fabrics:Birla(India),Bordo Tekstil(Turkey),Great Duksan(South Korea),Lenzing(Austria),Mozartex(China)...
•cupro:Chikuma(Hong Kong),The Core and Shinjtex(South Korea)...
Organic cotton,a natural cellulose fabric,was long the material most in demand by buyers.Forecasts for European market suggest a difficult period lays ahead for the sector.Elcin YUKSEL,sales director at Larmatex(Turkey),which has been attending Texworld since the firm was established in 2008,emphasizes:"We have offered organic cotton fabrics,representing 5%of our sales,since the time our factory was set up.
Demand is dropping,year on year,as a result of the price which is 30%much higher than conventional cotton.The added value from organics is not yet a major criterion when firms are deciding to buy.We can hope that the market will pick up if firms and the key players in particular,adopt organic cotton for its qualities."Organic cotton would flourish if brands really committed themselves,since according to Textile Intelligence in its latest report on organic cotton:more than 81%of companies expect to include more organic cotton in their collections".
Recycled cotton is increasingly valued and around a dozen major weavers,mainly from Pakistan are offering it at Texworld.Faced with difficulties in the supply and the price of organic cotton,there are many firms who have opted man-made cellulosic fabrics,which constitute an interesting alternative in terms of prices and quality.100%or blended Tencel ranks foremost among the fabrics that are most in demand:it is produced with cellulose fiber with a smaller environmental footprint since less water is needed to manufacture it than for cotton.
The same applies to processing,as cellulosic fabrics require fewer products in practice."Compared with cotton,the ecological footprint is low and the material is biodegradable,"says Nicolas Rouillon,market manager for France,the Benelux and North Africa for Lenzing,the Austrian manufacturer of cellulosic fibers,which has been attending Texworld for several years.Companies value cellulosic fabrics,Tencel in particular,for their strength compared with cotton,their silky feel and their breathable and absorbent properties.
These qualities make for an interesting sales pitch for firms,as confirmed by Vanessa Le Bris,product developer for Ekyog,a green label from France:"We use a lot of Tencel woven's and knits in our collections for their ecological and functional qualities.Many firms also choose them as an alternative to silk as the texture is similar,depending on the weave,and they can be machine-washed without fear.
According to Mozart Tseng from the Mozartex Company,an exhibitor at Texworld and the largest supplier of Tencel fabrics in China:"Cellulosic fabrics make up 80%of our sales.We work with designers,high-end firms and the major retail brands like Alexander Wang,Marc Jacobs,Marks&Spencer,Uniqlo...We have noted strong growth in demand over the last five years.Considering how the market is changing,I think that cellulosic fabrics like Tencel and Modal will establish themselves as the benchmark for ecofriendly fabrics and will be in greatest demand in the future.The former in particular for its strength."Mozartex,as a pioneer,decided to specialise in Tencel fabrics as early as 1992.
Little known prior to the crisis in the cotton sector,cellulosic fabrics have enjoyed great success in the fashion industry:luxury goods,designers for reputed retail chains,all have become loyal fans.As with cotton,cellulosic fabrics are to be found in all the collections.Fashion labels like Maje,Sandro,Comptoir des Cotonniersor the major design houses like Givenchy,Dior,Saint Laurent Paris or lifestyle brands like Decathlon have adopted them",confirms Nicolas Rouillon.
Eco-friendly fabrics for summer 2014 that can be seen at Texworld next February will appeal to buyers in search of innovation,like,for instance,the new 100%Tencel from Mozartex,reference number 8F078-F,that has a weave like heavy silk with a sand-washed finish or reference O-Pollino from Larmatex in eco-friendly,100%organic cotton print with a pattern of small black and ochre leaves on a beige background.
Messe Frankfurt is Germany's leading trade fair organiser,with 538 million euros in sales and 1,891 active employees worldwide.The Messe Frankfurt Group has a global network of 28 subsidiaries and approx.50 international Sales Partners,giving it a presence for its customers in more than 150 countries.Events"Made by Messe Frankfurt"take place at more than 30 locations around the globe.
In 2012,Messe Frankfurt organized 109 trade fairs,of which more than half took place outside Germany.Messe Frankfurt's exhibition grounds,featuring 578,000 square meters,are currently home to ten exhibition halls and an adjacent Congress Center.The company is publicly owned,with the City of Frankfurt holding 60 percent and the State of Hesse 40 percent.
