A preview of the trends at Texworld for next summer
More than 625 international weavers and producers will reveal their new collections for Spring/c this February. Texworld alone has registered 85 new exhibitors from South Korea, China, Egypt, India, Hong Kong, Thailand and Turkey. As for Apparel Sourcing Paris, diversity is growing with more than 17 new manufacturers, 6 of which are companies from the Euro-Mediterranean region.
The top 3 countries with regard to the number of new exhibitors at Texworld: China in first place, followed by Turkey and South Korea. Turkey deserves a special mention as it is benefiting from the trend for local sourcing: it is boosting its presence at Texworld and has become the second country in terms of exhibitor numbers, contributing more new products that are much in demand like knits, prints and lace for lingerie.
There follows a preview of the ranges for summer 2014 from these new firms, by segment:
• Knits
17 new weavers who combine creativity, versatility and innovation like:
- Balsoy Tekstil (Turkey) – this company has 40 years of experience and stands out on the market with its Milan stitch and superior cotton piqués for mid-range men’s and women’s ranges. It weaves and dyes fabrics in 100% or blended cotton.
- Gemma Knits Thailand adds to the products offered in the Thai pavilion which brings together 28 exhibitors. Its technical textiles in weft knits are destined for loungewear, beach wear and lower to mid-range lingerie.
- MJ Youna Co (South Korea) with its very lightweight Lurex knits for day or evening wear for the women’s and junior market looking for fabrics with added value.
- Shaoxing County Hongji Textile (China) with its cotton jacquards and knits, testament to its excellent craftsmanship, is targeting womenswear labels which are looking for mid-range products that offer both good value and creativity.
• Embroidery & lace
15 new names are joining us, which will bolster the product ranges in this ultra-feminine sector that is very much in demand from designers and luxury labels at Texworld. These names include:
- Divinia Exports (India) from Mumbai which offers the very best in embroidery skills with very high-end, handcrafted products. The firm offers panels of embroidery or finished products. Their creations blend sumptuousness and delicacy, like this panel that is entirely embroidered with loops of crystal and beads interspersed with transparent rhodoïd petals.
- Antik Dantel (Turkey) has created an entire line of sophisticated lace at competitive prices since 1995. This is destined for lingerie and women’s ready-to-wear in the mid to premium ranges. Making use of high-performance machinery, the firm is capable of responding to requirements for very high volumes at very short deadlines.
• Silk and silky aspects
Among the 10 newcomers, the Hoshin Textile Company from South Korea is of particular interest for designers thanks to its silks and façonné polyesters with non-standard finishes.
- Silkwoo (China), this young firm from Huangzhou is setting the standards thanks to the quality of its satins and yarn-dyed silk twills in different weights. Its jersey, an 80% silk /20% viscose blend, is also an excellent loss leader for the summer thanks to the way it hangs and its breathable qualities. Excellent value for money for mid-range to premium lines.
• Cotton
This segment welcomes 9 new arrivals to include El Hesn (Egypt), a well-established company founded in Cairo in 1898. It collection of shirting and dresses and blouses, which are in yarn-dyed, 100% Egyptian cotton, is of exceptional quality. A specialist for shirting, they develop the most superior finishes (easy-care, crease-resistant, mercerised, silky...). The company also supplies 100% organic cotton with GOTS certification.
- BTA Tekstil (Turkey) based in Istanbul, weaves, dyes and prints high-quality fabrics in 100% or blended cotton. Its mid-range collection with its impeccable finishes is aimed at casual wear for women in particular.
• Functional Fabrics
- Everest Thailand, an industry reference for functional textiles and processes with very high added value in terms of technology, already adopted by the major global manufacturers like Nike or Adidas. In addition to this, the company incorporates sustainable development in its portfolio like, for example, organic cotton, recycled nylon and polyester.
• Linen
Two new Chinese linen-weavers, Shenzen Best Linen and Hangzhou Shengtex Linen Co offer an outstanding choice for formal and casual wear. The former, in addition to its range of yarn-dyed 100% linens, is showing a very feminine and urban collection. For example: this linen woven with metal, in an iridescent champagne colour, striking a nice balance between a natural and sophisticated look.
They also supply a fine assortment of ramie, ideal for structured volume, one of the key trends anticipated for summer 2014. The latter stands out with its knitwear in linen blended for menswear and womenswear. Where yarn-dyed fabrics are concerned, the linen and silk blend in an Ottoman look is an absolute must for womenswear!
• Prints
With 6 new companies, the segment dedicated to prints is expanding. For summer 2014, knits in 100% cotton or a cotton/rayon blend from the young Chinese firm Shaoxing Xinlun, whose opulent patterns, the result of digital printing, will appeal to buyers of womenswear and junior clothing.
• Trims & accessories
Waford Buttons Limited (Hong-Kong), established in 1998 and based in Kowloon, is an absolute must to visit for its very rich and interesting collection of buttons, made in zinc or brass alloys, and with the benefit of the “Confidence in Textiles” label. Flat and convex buttons, press studs, studs in various polishes for the rock look... in a nutshell: highly desirable! The firm also supplies customized designs.
Preview of the trends for summer 2014 at Texworld
For summer 2014, the trends at Texworld have taken their inspiration from the theme of Desire: the interplay of seduction and affirmation. They fall under 4 key themes focusing on reflections on the Desire to Be, Desire & Need, Desire & Regard and Desire for Appropriation.
Interpreted in colour themes: four palettes of shades for summer 2014, very urban, extremely desirable like this incandescent red going by the name of Censure Vive or this nude shade christened Erose! Four different approaches for a global understanding of a consensual concept of modern society. “It’s a taboo. A fantasy relegated to the depths of our innermost silence. Desire remains hidden away. It is no longer assuaged. At the risk of seeing this world continues to run ahead of an approaching wall. Desire will have come to nothing before it can be assuaged. However desire cannot be stifled. One cannot destroy the tree born of our imagination, our projections, our dreams and our anxieties without reverting to animal behavior.
So, the world is built on a silent desire, concealed, a cry in the dark that one pretends not to hear but thatresonates all the more for it. Denying desire and desire for denial. However desire is not realised in the negative. And its continued cry for life shakes our souls until it takes over. This is how Louis Gérin and Grégory Lamaud, the exhibition’s Artistic Directors, evoke Desire for the summer 2014 season.
