A decade ago, few leaders in the apparel industry would have predicted the high level of technical expertise, quality, and design sophistication we are seeing in China’s knitwear business. While opinion once held that Italian and British knitwear were unsurpassed, recession in the West and compressed supply chains have resulted in a more level playing field. Today we are seeing exciting new alliances and collaborations between Chinese spinners and their European counterparts, which will serve growing Asian markets as well as the West.
"Chinese spinners are now at the level of Italian spinners, but we are always learning from them,” explains Xiaotian Zhou, Director/General Manager of Zhejiang Xinao Textiles. Founded in 1991, this spinner of extrafine Merino and cashmere began hiring Italian professional technical personnel to improve the company’s spinning and dyeing as long ago as 2002, and last year bought venerable Italian cashmere spinner Loro Festa.
Manufacturing worsted and woollen fabrics, specialty polymer materials, and high-end worsted and cashmere yarns, Chinese textile giant Ningbo Consinee Group formed a joint venture with renowned Italian novelty spinner Lineapiu in 2005. Specializing in mohair, the Topline division became a model for the production and trade of yarns that are “designed in Italy, made in China.” In 2010 the joint venture was acquired and restructured by Consinee, with a new investment of USD 80 million.
Another example of China-Italian collaboration is that of Jiangsu Lugang’s Lanificio La Malpenga subsidiary. The Biella-based company’s two brands, Sinfonia and Armonia, are managed and designed by Italian designers and technicians, and produced in China. Several members of the team were originally part of the Lineapiu/Topline Joint Venture.
Ningbo Zhongxin Wool Textile Group’s Vice General Manager, Bao Ma, agrees that while the machines and production in China are “first class,” there is an ongoing need for market intelligence on an international basis. The company’s design team pays close attention to trend inspiration from its customers and brands, as well as from Paris, Italy, and shows such as SPINEXPO. According to Mr. Ma, Zhongxin is open to developing an alliance with an Italian spinner.
First established in 1990 as Suzhou Jinxiang Spinning, Yarns & Colors is now an international spinner, dyer, and knitwear manufacturer selling to high-end customers in Europe, the US, and Japan. According to General Manager Carlo Marinoni, the company’s strength lies in its specialty yarns and fine counts. With offices in Biella, Italy and Taipei, Taiwan, the company’s design team keeps tabs on international trends, and develops two seasonal collections and their own special colour card for.
