There are few that can create a spectacle from fabric alone, like Kolkata-based designer Vivek Kumar. Detailed intelligently and texturised with passion, this season Kumar has joined hands with Ritika creations forming "Ritika by Vivek Kumar" and his creating a beautiful collection called "Kirtimukha".
Known for his signature style of realising his inspirations through texture, and dabbling in techniques such as printing, dyeing, embroidery and surface treatment, Kumar's latest 'Kirtimukha' collection is another range that has been put together with as much thought and intelligence as with an unrelenting adoration for good fashion – a philosophy that forms the ethos of his work.
The inspiration for his collection is the Kirtimukha: A protector deity, a threshold guardian and the "face of glory". It embodies the dualism between the physical and the philosophical conceptions of human nature. Kirtimukha is the embodiment of the mind and our unbridled physical passions and aggressive desires. Kumar's collection is thus centred on this – an ever-going tussle between the worldly and the spiritual aspect of human nature. Long gowns and relaxed cuts depict the essence of the serene monastic feel, while the metallic surface embellishments are reminiscent of the darker side.
Kumar has extensively used exclusive handmade textiles from Assam such as Moonga silk, Raw silk, Matka silk, cotton, linen and georgette, and clubbed these with knitted fabrics and a unique form of hand-knitting.
This mixture of hand-woven with hand-knitted in Indian silk and wool, spruced up with complex embroidery and custom-designed metal yarn, is a strong highlight of this collection. He has deployed several forms of texture – hand-knitting, block printing, hand-embroidery, zardozi and sequin-work. The strategic use of velvet and heavy embroidery around the yoke are also Kumar's signature styles.
Kirtimukha' will see long shift dresses and gowns in an Indo-Western avatar with a special emphasis on texture, use of fabrics and a beautiful yoke with intricate work and ceaseless creativity. The dresses are light, flowy and eclectic, and will feature in a bright earthy palette of dull pink, red, green, maroon and blue, all in subtle tones, combined with coffee, wood, black and rust to develop an ethereal yet quirky collection.
"Ritika by Vivek Kumar" is synonymous with garments which exude elegance and style and yet retain comfort.
