This Is an Interesting Area for Shoppers, Retailers, and Manufacturers

This is an interesting area for shoppers, retailers, and manufacturers because there is no universal grading system in place. While the National Oak Flooring Manufacturer's Association, or NOFMA, has established a grading system, it only applies to certain domestic species. NOFMA has merged with the National Wood Flooring Association (NWFA). For photos of grading, click here. It is important to note that grading typically refers more to the look of the floor versus the quality of the floor. For example, an antique grade floor is just as structurally sound as a floor graded as select and better. The antique floor will have more of a rustic look to it with more character marks. Many manufacturers create their own grading systems which apply more to the look of the wood than the strength, stability, durability, and quality of the flooring. When it comes to engineered hardwood, most sellers do not make grading information available. Common Grading Names When shopping for hardwood, there may be several different grade names present. For prefinished hardwood products, these are commonly seen grades: ·Clear Grade: This is the best grade of hardwood flooring because there are few color variations, board lengths are not widely varied, and there are little to no visible knots or pinholes. ·Select and Better: This grade is slightly lower than the clear, still presenting uniform color and little to no knots and pinholes. ·#1 Common: This grade presents with more color variation, shorter board length with greater length variation, and an increased chance of visible knots and pinholes. ·#2 Common: Boards show natural character, with darker and lighter boards, shorter board length, with an increase in visible knots and pinholes. ·Shorts: This has the most visible character with many knots, pinholes, and color variations present. For unfinished hardwood products, these are commonly seen grades: ·Clear Grade: This is the best grade of hardwood flooring because there are few color variations, board lengths are not widely varied, and there are little to no visible knots or pinholes. ·Select and Better: This grade is slightly lower than the clear, still presenting uniform color and little to no knots and pinholes. ·Country or Exclusive Grades: This grade presents with more color variation, shorter board length with greater length variation, and an increased chance of visible knots and pinholes. ·Traditional, Antique, Character Grades: Boards show natural character, with darker and lighter boards, shorter board length, with an increase in visible knots and pinholes. ·Tavern or Cabin Grade: This has the most visible character with many knots, pinholes, and color variations present. It is worth noting that some sellers combine grades. For example, a floor may be sold as #1 common and better, meaning it is a combination of #1 common, select and better and clear grades. In this case, you will want to find out from the seller what proportion of each grade is. Prefinished versus Site Finished Prefinished boards are finished at the manufacturer, using several coats of finish with aluminum oxide, a surface coating which is the second hardest substance in the world, next to diamond. Special equipment dries the finish almost instantly, creating a durable surface for people to walk on. These are more expensive than unfinished floors, but can be installed in the home without having to worry about sanding and finishing. Site finished flooring is unfinished hardwood installed on the site and then finished. These boards cannot use aluminum oxide, because by the time the finish dries (several hours in some cases) the aluminum oxide particles will sink to the bottom, therefore not providing a hardened surface for people to walk on. There are several other durable finishes and sealers to choose from. Surface Texture Types There are a few different surface textures available to help buyers get the look they want. Each one of the texture options below offers a different style to be considered for decor purposes. ·Smooth: This refers to traditional milled boards. ·Hand Scraped: This refers to boards that are distressed by hand. ·Distressed: This refers to boards that are distressed by machine. ·Antique: This refers to the boards with the appearance of extreme age. ·Wire brushed: The wire brush texture consists of a wire brush run over wood flooring, creating a rough, hard surface. The wire brush gets rid of the soft wood on the surface, making the floor more durable, less slippery, and easier to maintain. This surface also hides scratches and makes the wood surface look old, which some people like. Species There are many different species available to use for hardwood flooring. Choosing the right species is important as each species has different characteristics, colors and grain patterns. Each kind of wood has a hardness rating on the Janka Hardness Scale which can indicate how well the floor may hold up over the years; however, any floor may show early signs of wear and tear if not properly maintained. Domestics The following species are some of the more popular domestically grown and processed: White Ash, Beech, Birch, Black Cherry (aka American Cherry), Hickory-Pecan, Sugar Maple, Mesquite, Red Oak, White Oak, Pine, and American Black Walnut. Exotics/Imports The following species are some of the more popular exotics, imported from other countries: Bamboo, Brazilian Cherry, Bubinga, Cork, Cumaru, Spotted Gum, Sydney Blue Gum, Iroko, Jarrah, Mahogany, Brazilian Maple, Merbau, Tasmanian Oak, Padauk, Purpleheart, Brazilian Teak, Thai Burmese Teak, Brazilian Walnut, and Wenge. Installation Types You can divide hardwood into installation categories and you might want to select your hardwood this way, ensuring you pick a floor with the kind of installation you prefer: ·Nail/Staple down: Nail down uses nails to attach the wood to the subflooring, and staple down uses staples to attach the wood. Staple down is simpler than nail down. Neither nail nor staple down is suggested for novice installers. Solid hardwood is often installed using this method. ·Glue down: If the flooring is an engineered hardwood, it can be glued to the subflooring with a strong adhesive. This method is rarely used on solid hardwood floors, except for some thin profile solids. ·Float: Available in the following two options, made for an easier do-it-yourself installation. These floors are not attached to the subfloor and therefore can be installed over just about any surface. Usually, a moisture barrier and/or underpad is placed between the subfloor and the engineered wood floor. ·Glue-Seam: These floors use an adhesive to glue the pieces together. ·Glueless-Click: These floors snap together and require no glue. Source: BuildDirect