The mandarin jacket is a kind of men's short jacket worn over the long gown in former times. The sleeves of the navel-length jacket cover little more than the elbows, making it convenient for riding a horse, hence the name of the jacket in Chinese—magua (riding jacket). This style of jacket was limited to soldiers of the "Eight Banners" in the early days of the Qing Dynasty. During the reign of Emperor Kangxi, wealthy men began to wear the mandarin jacket as well and it gradually became a casual dress.
During the Qianlong Period of the Qing Dynasty, leather mandarin jackets with fur lining facing outward were all the rage, but ordinary people could not afford these pricy fur jackets. After the Revolution of 1911, a black mandarin jacket and a blue long gown were officially designated as a ceremonial outfit. Therefore, mandarin jackets and long gowns were popular across the country, but they were slowly going out of fashion in the late 1940s.
There are several styles of mandarin jackets, including right-lapelled jackets, front-opening jackets, and those with a short right lapel as well as those with fur lining facing outward etc. After 1949, fewer and fewer people wore mandarin jackets. But in recent years, as vintage-style dresses are making a comeback, mandarin jackets are back, too.
