Of all the ancient drapery, brocade represents the highest techniques. Incorporating weaving techniques of all dynasties, Yun Brocade of Nanjing is called "Cloud Brocade" in Chinese. The Chinese name derives from the omniform patterns which are as beautiful as rosy clouds. It is also said that the name originates in the cloud-patterns which often appear in the brocade. As the quintessence of Chinese weaving techniques, Yun Brocade of Nanjing comes first among the three types of celebrated brocade in ancient times (the other two are Song Brocade and Shu Brocade). As a traditional type of figured brocade in Chinese brocade, Yun Brocade of Nanjing is praised as "One of Unique Chinese Techniques", and "Treasure of the World".
Figured Brocade of Nanjing originated in the Kingdom of Wu in the 3rd century. As a government agency on the national level, Brocade Office was established to regulate brocade production and distribution in 417, the 13th year during the Period of Yixi in the late Eastern Jin Dynasty. The office was also called "Douchang Brocade Office" because it was located beside Douchang Temple on the bank of Qinhuai River in the southeast of the capital. Here is one of the major characteristics of Yun Brocade. Specifically, as one of the "hundred schools of handcraft", brocade craftsmen in the Later Qin Dynasty inherited the traditional brocade techniques in the Western and Eastern Han Dynasties, the Kingdom of Wei (ruled by Cao Cao and his descendants), the Western Jin Dynasty, and even the early Period of Sixteen Kingdoms. In the early Period of Sixteen Kingdoms, in particular, ethnic rulers were especially fond of gold-wefted brocade. Therefore, experts generally believed that Yun Brocade of Nanjing was formally born in 417 when Brocade Office was officially established in Jiankang (contemporary Nanjing) in the Eastern Jin Dynasty. Accordingly, Yun Brocade of Nanjing embraces a long history of over 1580 years. When the production of Yun Brocade was at its peak, there were over 30,000 weaving machines, as well as nearly 300,000 people engaged in it or in related industries. It was the largest handicraft industry in synchronous Nanjing.
