Blurring the lines between adorning and dressing, between a product of style and a piece of art; the TARUN TAHILIANI Autumn/Winter Collection 2014 does away with the distinction between clothes and jewellery. Inspired by ornaments found all over the world, this season they dig deep in the trenches of the heritage of the world and strike gold.
The collection was unveiled with aplomb, and the gorgeous Shilpa Shetty along with Harman Baweja and Ayesha Khanna walked the ramp for the designer at the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week AW’14, on March 26th, 2014 at Pragati Maidan, New Delhi.
“I am an individualist, evolving a new technique, which though not necessarily Indian in the traditional sense of the word, will yet be fundamentally Indian in spirit” so said Amrita Sher-Gil, who went on to interpret the life of Indian poor on the plane of colour.
“This is what struck me as a huge similarity when I was wandering through the exhibition, that in fact this studio does precisely that, straining to capture the last free flowing drapes into easy fluid structured forms, as observed from around the subcontinent and parade with the vibrancy of colour, the intricate embellishments and the symbols that came to define these races.
“To give them a contemporary form, to redefine relevance and most important, not to lose a particular vocabulary forever, by celebrating it in a new avatar everyday- Hence ornament as the principal embellishment is the glue that binds this collection together, “ this is how Tarun Tahiliani describes his latest collection.
The Satlada inspired series is an instant pick me up. These are statement pieces with necklines so ornamental they render a jeweller useless. Details of gold finery deck the collars and cuffs giving the illusion of layers of golden thread. The tunics stand out providing the ease of wearing heavy jewel patterns on fabrics light as air. Also partaking in the gold rush is the South Indian Necklace series.
The iconic shape of this jewellery lends itself to the flattering emperor silhouette and lush necklines. The ornate kaftans balance the heavy gold pattern with recurring jewel motif making it luxuriant and indulgence ready. No jewel inspired series is complete without influence of the Mughals – the signature stone-work, miniature paintings and mango shaped motifs with Swarovski Elements represent a delicate glamour in gossamer, multi-colour hues.
From jewels of India to all over the world; Pleated Enamel is a slimming print, which creates the illusion of drape. Tops with mukaish-work and a full village-belle skirt add elements of fun, while striking kurtas and tunics with medallions and doubloons painted on form an emblazoned bounty.
Paying homage to Tapestry; velvet, net and zardozi come together to form the ultimate peasant dress with jewelled collar. The delicate kalidar kurta in floating sheer silk lends elfin qualities and the Art Nouveau influence with its graceful curvilinear form makes it ideally suited for blouses.
There is also new found emphasis on print – multiscarf patterns where various squares form a singular print and create an optical illusion, creating tier upon delicate tier, make towering kaftans, unconventional saris and dhoti skirts; black and white Kaleidoscope based patterns shown in jackets with slits, short crop jackets and long asymmetric kurtas give traditional clothing global edge and the Jamawar based pencil skirt is a delicate work of seemingly hand painted filigree fading into a darker ombre creating a trompe l’oeil effect.
Vintage embroidery in honeyed rusts is brought to life against black contrasts of velvet, seen on tunics with dolman sleeves, bejewelled collars and an anarkali, gilet and churidar pairing.
Taking the mastery achieved in years of draping and contemporising it into separates; this ready-to-wear collection offers a smorgasbord of options and allows the wearer some room for individuality. The dhoti and lungi drape inspired pants and skirts are a DIY solution, easily paired with daily urban wear.
Every inspired theme has blouses with adventurous backs and embroidery that can be paired with multiple saris to create myriad combinations. Tunics, gilets, scarves, kurtas, vintage dresses, kedeo inspired shirts, stud-work sheer pants that jazz up any ensemble, graceful kaftans that fall like French peignoirs, and even variations of the concept sari from every theme leave you spoilt for choice, as any true Prêt-à-Porter line must.
The pashmina wraps are to be a welcome addition in the Indian closet. Open to interpretation, it creates interesting levels and falls differently on different bodies. A versatile object in moody hues, not only does it prove to be a graceful solution to layering on ethnic wear but also sits perfectly on layered skirts in urban gypsy mode. The idea traces its root in the early drape tradition of the country when the clothes would mould to fit the body and not vice versa.
